A Love Letter to Etosha

From sunrise over the salt pans to intimate encounters with wildlife, Mokuti Etosha blends wild beauty with understated luxury, leaving Namibia’s vastness on your soul.

Words by Anje Hill | Images by Nessy Hilifilwa, Oye Creative Studio

My love for the bush began as a child growing up in the “binneland,” where often holidays meant dusty roads, early wake-ups, and the chance of wildlife. My parents gave us the bush as a gift, planting a love that never faded. The Kruger felt like home. Even after travelling to other continents, Africa remained my favourite.

When I finally had the chance to visit Namibia, especially Etosha National Park, I felt as excited as a child on Christmas morning. At the airport, boarding our Airlink flight and flying over the Atlantic, I watched the Namibian landscape unfold below. I could feel it in my bones: this was really happening.

The drive from Windhoek to Mokuti Etosha set the mood. The landscape felt both familiar and unique. It was open, dry, and incredibly vast. Etosha has a striking beauty, with low plants and flat plains that seem to stretch on forever, making it perfect for spotting wildlife. You can see for kilometres. There is nowhere to hide. Everything is open and honest.

Image: Anje Hill

And then you arrive at Mokuti.
Just minutes from the Von Lindequist Gate, Mokuti Etosha blends earthy elegance with quiet luxury. My deluxe room was cool, calm, and beautifully designed. Clean lines, natural textures, and gentle safari touches created a peaceful retreat after a day in the sun.

We dropped our bags and went straight to Itulye Restaurant for a late lunch. As we sat down, overlooking the sweeping lawns, bontebok grazing in the distance, and the mesmerising pool sparkling beneath the Namibian sun, a few curious ground squirrels greeted us at the table. At that moment, fork in hand, a warm breeze on my skin, I knew. I am here.

From the gate to the gardeners, reception, management and the restaurant team, every interaction added to the experience O&L Leisure understands hospitality deeply. A special mention must go to Simon at Itulye, who made every meal memorable. As
a vegetarian, I was spoiled with fresh salads, vibrant sides and thoughtful options. If there is one thing Mokhuti does exceptionally
well, it is food.

Bush walk with the indigenous Hai//om.

We started our days early, heading into Etosha with our ranger, Fabian. He knew so much about the park, but what impressed me most was how he positioned the vehicle during sightings. He always aimed to give us the best view, light and angle, which made
a big difference.

One morning, we saw the largest group of giraffes I had ever come across, moving gracefully through trumpet thorns. It felt like a scene from a film. Later, we were surrounded by a huge herd of elephants on both sides of the road. We switched off the engine and listened to the silence, the sounds of chewing and breathing, and a baby elephant practising its trumpet call and mock charge.

Elephants have always been special to me. My late mother-in-law loved them, her spirit animal. Sitting there, enclosed by that gentle giant’s presence, I felt an unexpected swell of emotion. Tears came quietly. I wished I could have phoned her then and said, “Mom, you won’t believe this.” In my years of visiting the bush, I had never been this close to a herd.

Etosha National Park is also a paradise for bird lovers. We saw lilac-breasted rollers with bright blue feathers, the impressive kori bustard—the world’s heaviest flying bird—, Burchell’s sandgrouse, helmeted guinea fowl referred to as “suicide chickens” by the locals and bateleurs gliding through the sky. We also spotted the common duiker, black-backed jackal, and the graceful Angolan giraffe. The open landscape made every sighting feel even more special.

Visitors can also see lion, leopard, rhino, cheetah, kudu, gemsbok, and large herds of zebra and springbok. This wildlife often gathers at Etosha’s famous waterholes, creating unforgettable moments.

We also took a bush walk with the indigenous Hai//om community. Learning about their deep knowledge of plants, animal tracks, and survival changed my perspective. It made the experience about more than just luxury and reminded me that this land has a history much older than tourism.

Evenings felt magical, whether we dined at Itulye Restaurant or at the raised SkyBoma. Mokuti’s evenings delighted all the senses.
At SkyBoma, eight metres above the bush on a platform inspired by a termite mound, we watched the sun set over endless plains and firelight dance on the deck. The sky was full of stars, and the air carried the scent of earth, acacia and campfire smoke. We enjoyed a generous meal and sweeping views from the spiral staircase.

Dining at the spectacular Sky Boma.

Travelling with South Africans, Americans, Brits, and Namibians made the trip even richer. Seeing international visitors experience African wildlife for the first time reminded me how fortunate we are. As Africans, we sometimes forget that this natural beauty is so close to home.

This trip rekindled my love for the bush and gave me a deep sense of privilege in living on this continent.

Mokuti Etosha has something for everyone: couples looking for romance under the stars, solo female travellers wanting safety and care, friends seeking adventure, and families making memories together. As a woman traveller, I felt safe, cared for, and completely at ease. Namibia feels like a woman who commands a room without raising her voice. She is sun-kissed, wind-swept, independent, and spacious in every way. She does not seek attention. She simply exists.

Long after I returned home, I realised something. I still find grains of Namibia in my pockets.

Related Articles